This article will cover the process of getting that raw bike frame look, removing anodized color from rims & stems, and painting bike parts with canned spray paint. I have also included a link to a SHORT VERSION if this article seems too long to read, but keep in mind, the SHORT VERSION doesn’t have all the warnings of the long version.
Here is a list of what you will need:
A bike and/or part you want to change the color of
Tools
Newspaper
Clothes hangers
Sandpaper (varying grits)
Rubber gloves
Masking tape
Paint stripper
Oven cleaner
Mineral Spirits
Canned spray paint/clear coat
All of these items can be purchased at Wal-Mart, Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc.

The first thing you need to know if you’re going to repaint or “raw” your bike is what you want the final product to look like. I love to paint my BMX bike a lot. I like changing up the color schemes on a regular basis. In the last 3 years, I’ve had at least a dozen variations of colors on my bikes with one of those color schemes lasting almost a year and a half. That being said, it’s important to have a visual in mind when you start the process of changing colors on your bike so you know what parts are getting what color.
My first “good” BMX bike went through more than half a dozen color combos while I owned it with the rims, sprocket, hubs, forks & bars changing color every couple of months. My current ride started out factory blue with white highlights. Originally I had to paint the hubs & rims to match the factory blue as well as the brakes, lever, sprocket, & seatpost white for highlights. I ran that color scheme for the longest time because the factory color was great but after awhile I even grew tired of that and had to change. That’s when I went to the green & brown colors inspired by a U.S. Army Harley motorcycle.

This is why I am stressing the importance of having a game plan before you begin painting. If you’re anything like me than patience is not a virtue for you and you attack your bike with spray can in hand without a plan. In the past this has not been as big a problem but for my last color scheme it didn’t pay off as well. When I painted my bike green & brown I decided to paint over the blue & white instead of stripping it off and painting it fresh from scratch. That’s where I made my mistake. The paint and colors came out just fine but after my first session I started to see little spots of blue coming through where I scratched off the green. Being a bit of a perfectionist like I am, that began to bother me. That is why I promptly decided to change colors once again after only 4 months.
Since I have never been rich enough to have an actual spray paint gun I have always painted my bikes with Krylon and I have gotten numerous compliments on my bikes paint jobs. I figure this means I’m doing something right so I’m going to share my techniques with you today. First thing you need to do is realize that to do it right, you have to take your bike apart. Most people don’t like this idea because it just adds to the time it’s going to take to complete the project but to make it look good you have to do so. That’s why I paint my bikes when it’s going to rain for a few days. If you like painting your wheel sets as much as I do than this will also force you to learn how to lace a wheel. That can save you money as well because you won’t have to pay somebody at your local bike shop to do it for you. THIS is the website that taught me how to lace up a wheel but I suggest you do a Google search on the topic and read multiple articles on the subject. I also highly recommend you take photos of your wheels laced up before you take them apart so you have a reference for putting them back together. You can also do one wheel at a time so you can look at the other wheel as a reference. If you’re going to paint your frame than take your bike completely apart before you start painting. That means pulling the wheels, forks, bars, headset, cranks, seat-post, brakes, and chain off. You can leave the bottom bracket bearings in if you want but I don’t recommend it if you’re going to use paint stripper on your frame. The thing that most people don’t take into consideration is the overspray that happens when painting your bike. This means you need to have every part that you DON’T want to paint kept separate from the parts you DO want to paint.

Now that you’ve taken your bike apart, it’s time to sand down any rough spots. These rough spots are generally caused by falls and grinding which means you should check the chain-stays, bottom bracket, crank arms, etc. I suggest you start with a medium grit (80-120) to get the big scratches out. Then move to a fine or extra fine grit (180+) to smooth out the sanding marks from the medium grit. Once you’ve done that it’s time to strip the old paint off. From this point on, YOU SHOULD NEVER TOUCH ANY PART OF YOUR BIKE OR SUPPLIES WITHOUT GLOVES. I personally like to use a pair of surgical gloves as my first layer & rubber house cleaning gloves for the outer layer. In order to begin stripping the old paint off your bike you need to create a place to use the paint stripper. DO NOT DO THIS INSIDE AN ENCLOSED SPACE. I do all my work in my garage with the garage door open. I also lay down multiple layers of newspaper to protect my garage floor.
I suggest you test the paint stripper out on a small area of your bike first before you cover the entire part. I like to use the spray on stripper but you can get the kind that paints on if you prefer. I have found they both work just as well. Paint stripper can be found at Wal-Mart, Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc. Keep in mind also that for most bikes, it is going to take multiple rounds of stripping to get everything off the bike. When you’re applying the stripper make sure you put a thick layer on the part you are stripping. I used 4 cans of the spray-on stripper to remove the paint from every part of my bike. I like to do one side at a time and I don’t like to do too many parts at one time. The reason being is that if you let the stripper sit on the part for to long it will dry out and begin to gel on the part which makes it more difficult to wipe or scrape off. Most strippers will get the first layer of paint off within 5 to 20 minutes. Now that you’ve sprayed down the part and waited, it’s time to wipe off the stripper and see what paint is left. Spray paint from a can will generally come off easily but a factory paint job will take multiple wipe downs. As you can see, the green paint bubbled up letting me know it was ready to be wiped down. I usually start wiping the part down with paper towel to get the majority of the chemical off and then I give it a good wipe down with a steel wool pad. My recent experience with stripping my bike parts taught me that the paint on some parts is tougher to get off then others. The paint on my frame came off after two coats that soaked for 20 minutes. The paint on my handlebars took 4 coats and the forks took 5 coats with the last coat soaking for 2 hours. Even then I had to scrape the paint off with a metal scraper to get it completely clean. Once you’ve removed all of the paint, and you are down to bare metal, it is time for the next step.



Remember; NEVER TOUCH A BARE METAL PART WITH YOUR BARE HAND. The oils in your skin will cause the part to rust pretty quickly, ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES. Now that you’ve removed all the paint from the part, hose the part down with water and rub the remainder of the stripper off with your gloved hand. At this point, rust and time are your worst enemies. Immediately after hosing the part down, clean it with a rag and mineral spirits. Mineral spirits (or paint thinner) will remove any remaining water and oils that may have gotten on the frame which will keep it from rusting. Once again, do this outside because the fumes from the mineral spirits/paint thinner can be toxic, or at the very least give you a headache.
If you’re running any aluminum parts on your bike (i.e. stem, seatpost, rims, etc) then there is a good chance you have some anodized parts on your bike as well. If you want to remove the anodized color from your aluminum parts then you will need to get some oven/grill cleaner. I bought a commercial strength over cleaner from Home Depot but any oven cleaner from the grocery store should work just fine. You will want to do this in a similar manner to stripping the bike except that you won’t want to let it “soak” as long. The oven cleaner will begin to oxidize the aluminum part if you leave it on there too long so I suggest waiting only 5 to 10 minutes between layers. If you do find some oxidization of the parts then just sand it down with a very fine grit sandpaper to remove any marks left behind.
Now that all your parts are paint/anodizing free and have been cleaned with mineral spirits, it is time to paint/clear coat. Before your begin painting, you will want to mask off any areas that you don’t want to get paint into (i.e. bottom bracket, headtube, drop outs, etc.). On my frame I always mask off the drop outs, bottom bracket, & brake mounts. On my handlebars I mask off the area where the stem clamps down and on my back rim I mask off the sidewalls where the brake pads rub. Paint acts almost like a lubricant and can cause your rear wheel, handlebars & brake pads to slip. Once you’ve stripped the parts to bare metal, you want to cover that bare metal with either paint or a clear coat to protect it from rusting. If you’re painting your bike then 3 or 4 coats should be enough paint to make the part look good. Once you’ve finished putting color on your bike, put 2 or 3 coats of clear coat on there to protect the paint. If you plan to leave your bike with the raw metal look then you will want to put 7 or 8 coats of clear spray paint on there to make sure you have enough to protect the part from rust. This being said, you will probably need a total of 3 to 5 cans of spray paint and/or clear coat to repaint an entire bike (frame, fork, bars, crank arms, sprocket, rims, hubs, spacers, headset, stem, etc).

I usually hang my parts from coat hangers so that I can paint each part completely instead of having to paint one side at a time. When painting your bike with spray paint it is important to remember to use light coats sprayed at a distance of 12 to14 inches from the part. Spray each part with one layer at a time and allow the manufacturers suggested dry times between coats. Most spray paints require 10 minutes to an hour between coats and a total dry time of 1 to 24 hours. Check the back of the can before you buy the paint to make sure the dry times work for your schedule. The first layer of paint should be thin enough that you can still see metal underneath. Being patient and spraying numerous light coats of paint will prevent you from getting runs in your paint job which are a dead give away that you did it yourself, and makes the paint job look bad. If you do get a run in the paint then wipe it down immediately with a rag and let the paint dry completely. Then you can sand down the remainder of the run and start painting again afterwards. Remember, be patient with the painting process and allow the recommended total dry time before you put your bike back together. If you get anxious and try to put the bike back together before it is completely dry the paint will scratch off easily and once again, make the paint job look bad. If you take your time and do it right, you will get compliments on the quality of the paint even if the color scheme looks horrible.
Now that you’ve finished painting the bike and let it dry completely it is time to put the bike back together and go for a ride. I hope this helps anybody planning on painting or “rawing” their bike. If I’ve left something out or if you have a question just post it in the comments below and I’ll try my best to answer it.

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